About this recipe

“Troublemaking” in family recipes — that is, adapting them to one’s new home — sometimes results in new categories of cuisine. Back home in Jamaica, a savory preparation of callaloo, or wild amaranth, was served alongside ackee and saltfish or fried breadfruit. Black trumpet mushrooms also go well with this, however, and midsummer in New England is the perfect time to forage both the greens and mushrooms. In other regions you might have to figure out local substitutes — which is half the fun. In Jamaican patois, mushrooms have two names, junjo or duppy umbrella. A “duppy” is a ghost or spirit (see the Bob Marley song “Duppy Conqueror”), so “duppy umbrella” is as whimsical as “toadstool,” if a little more eerie.